Marketing? A spirit of desecration? Pure snobbery? Consumer sociologists and psychologists might delve into the reasons behind the phenomenon of “designer labels” emerging from mass consumption. Here, though, we will limit ourselves to simply acknowledging their undeniable success and highlight to marketing professionals a new and potentially vast market segment.

It all began in 2017, when Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga’s creative director, rethought Ikea's blue Frakta bag, transforming it into a leather tote bag for the prestigious Hispanic-French fashion house. The association between model and reinterpretation is immediate, Pavlovian, even though only the Balenciaga brand stands out on the new bag. But the perspective was totally reversed in 2020, with Lidl's now famous trainers, where the yellow sticker with the brand name of the supermarket’s sign stands out on the tongue, mimicking the most enviable brands of sports footwear and their limited editions.

In an effort to emulate Lidl's success, both Aldi and Burger King have launched their own branded trainers this year. The fast-food chain offered their trainers as prizes in a contest associated with its 'Be the King' loyalty programme. To underscore the fashion statement of its footwear, Burger King unveiled them at Milan Fashion Week last February, featuring a large-scale installation at Darsena.

The popularity of the trainers has spurred the emergence of additional accessories and clothing items – such as t-shirts, shorts, and beach towels – branded by companies like Lidl and Eurospin, which have now launched their own capsule collections, all characterised by their affordability. This trend has been bolstered by pop culture, which has swiftly become integral to the marketing strategies of major retail chains, aligning with sustainable practices. This is exemplified by the shopping bags produced by Conad in partnership with 'metropolitan pop artist' Jack Ottanio, which are composed of 50% recycled plastic.

Esselunga has demonstrated that it is in no way inferior, having established Esselove as a genuine private label for non-food items. This brand was aptly launched at Milan's Darsena, and its hallmark features are the iconic symbols of the strawberry and the tomato, alongside the 'long S' – a design conceived in 1957 by the globally renowned graphic designer Max Huber. These symbols have been integral to the brand's identity throughout its history. The Esselove range spans various products, including stationery, clothing, beach and rain gear, tableware, party essentials, and a curated selection of multimedia products. All these items, much like the ones mentioned earlier, rely on the craftsmanship of expert customisers for their unique appeal. Those who have ears to hear, let him hear!